This is a land where symmetry, simplicity and boredom are not invited. Eliza Kożurno‘s jewelry designs are intricate, beautiful and not intended for those who like to play it safe. Kożurno’s designs are for all intents and purposes statement pieces. They command to be looked at, stared at and in fact studied.
Each one has so much detail, you can’t help but get lost in its complexity.
“A stylist once told me I was putting too much into my pieces and to simplify it for cost, but then it’s so boring and I can’t stand to do boring things,” says Kożurno.
She understands the business, and is working to sell her pieces, but she just can’t bare to compromise on the design, and good for her for sticking to her vision. To that stylist, shame on you! Can you imagine what we would have lost out on if someone said that to Lee Alexander McQueen?
Kożurno is a textile designer by trade and comes armed with a fine arts degree from her native Poland. She came to Toronto eight years ago and began working for local fashion designer Izzy Camilleri.
“I was amazed when I saw the way she works, just the professionalism, the quality was amazing,” says Kożurno. “She would just go over and over, if something wasn’t right she would say unpick it again, again, until it’s perfect. For her it doesn’t matter the time it’s just the quality she delivers.”
Kożurno quickly adopted Camilleri’s work ethic and began applying it to her own work. Some of her pieces can take up to four days to create, and if she is not happy with the work, she will take it apart and start again. Her attention to detail is more than impressive, yet she has no time for structure and straight lines.
“I am really a control freak and if I hired someone I would need to make sure they did it the way I do it. But it’s also I hate symmetry, I’m not very detail oriented in terms of cutting the length straight line” notes Kożurno. “I am imperfect, that’s why my collection is called ‘Imperfect Dream’. Beauty comes from imperfection, and I can’t be bothered to count every stitch.”
When she started designing ‘Imperfect Dream’ for Fall 2010, Kożurno was watching a lot of Film Noir, which is only black and white, and is full of mystery and suspense and beautiful actresses. It is elegance, beauty and mystery, which Kożurno has successfully pulled into her line.
You can see the the dark mystery in her various techniques and use of unconventional fabrics, like wire, found feathers, leather scraps, waxed cotton and wire. Kożurno’s work will each generally use a variety of complex techniques from knitting to crochet, weaving and intricate beading, hence no two pieces being alike. Some of the woven pieces remind the designer of the nets from the ocean from when they fish, which would make sense since she grew up in a seaside town.
Her process involves a rough sketch, but each piece really takes form as she is creating it.
“Mostly, it’s in my head, so I try as I go, and see how it fits,” says Kożurno. “If it’s too much, then I need to undo it. I have so many ideas, it’s crazy because I can’t keep track, I want to do it all, but I don’t have time!”
What she has time to do, is incredible. Her work is detailed beautiful and most certainly eye-catching. You will be hard pressed to go somewhere in an Eliza Kożurno design and not have people asking you where you got it and how they can get it too.